![]() The word “macro” means “large,” so macro photography is all about capturing small subjects in a large format. And all of these techniques also can work in conjunction with a macro lens.Macro photography is a type of photography that involves taking close-up pictures of small subjects. But all three of these techniques remove the lens's ability to focus past a certain distance, and will focus strictly by adjusting the lens-to-subject distance, so you don't get to choose your framing as freely as a macro lens lets you do. In addition to macro lenses, you can also increase magnification with "poor man's macro" methods, such as reversal rings (putting a lens on the camera backwards, or attached backwards to another lens with a coupling ring where the filters go), close-up filters (like putting a magnifying glass in front of a lens), or extension tubes (which increase the space between the camera body and the lens). So, for example, a 60mm lens is probably better for still life photos, while a 90mm or 100mm macro might be better for bugs. With subjects that can crawl, hop, or fly away if you loom too closely over them, it may. With flowers or table-top arrangements, or product photography, this may not matter. ![]() The shorter the lens, the smaller this distance tends to be. The other factor to consider is how close you have to be to your subject while shooting macro. All "true" macro lenses are prime lenses-lenses that don't zoom. Most folks consider 1:1 magnification the requirement for a "true" macro lens. 1:1, means that with an APS-C sensor, you can fill the frame with a subject that's the same size as the sensor: in the case of the D7000, that means 23.6mm x 15.6mm. When a lens's magnification spec is given as a ratio, that ratio is the size of the image on the sensor to the size of the actual object. The main things to consider when researching what macro lens to buy, are the magnification of the lens, and what the focal length will yield as a working distance and whether that working distance is appropriate for the subject matter you got the lens to shoot.Ī number of 3rd-party lenses are labelled as 'macro' (or in Nikon terminology MICRO) but that magnify at less than 1:1. Reversing rings might also work well, if you've got a slew of lenses to work with. You won't get near as close as with a true macro lens, but maybe that's not necessary. ![]() Nikon's older 60mm, Nikon's 85mm, Tamron's 90mm, and Sigma's 70mm.Īnother direction, as rob describes, is some extension tubes. Push the budget up to $500 and several really good options become available. A great lens, if you know what you're getting in to. It only focuses down to half life size, a 1:2 ratio, but that's often still plenty to take photos of things like flowers. A very old lens, your wife will need to manually focus and meter with the lens. The Nikon 55mm macro lens is right at your budget ($400). ![]() Working distance will be good and results will be pretty good. It's an older lens but an advantage of the D7000 is that it will let you use autofocus with this kind of lens. The Tokina 100mm macro lens is right at your budget ($400). There's literally no room to light your subject. The minimum focus distance is 6.4" from the sensor plane so that's about two inches from the front of the lens to take a photo of something at a 1:1 aspect ratio. So close that you are practically touching the subject. you have to get thisclose to your subject to use it. It'll autofocus and meter with the D7000 and any other modern Nikon body. The Nikon 40mm macro lens is the cheapest option (about $275) and from all reports it's a solid lens. At US$400, your options are pretty limited.
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